How to Recycle Batteries

Lead- and cadmium-based batteries pose the largest environmental concerns, so much so that nickel-cadmium was banned in Europe in 2009. Attempts are being made to also ban the lead-based battery, but no suitable replacement is available as was the case by substituting nickel-cadmium with nickel-metal-hydride. For the first time, lithium-ion has been added to the list of pollutants. This chemistry was classified as only mildly toxic, but their sheer volume requires tighter scrutiny.

Lead acid paved the way to the success of recycling, and today more than 97 percent of these batteries are recycled in the USA. The automotive industry should be given credit for having organized recycling early; however, business reasons rather than environmental concerns may have been the driving force. The recycling process is simple and 70 percent of the battery’s weight is reusable lead.

Over 50 percent of the lead supply comes from recycled batteries. Other battery types are not as economical to recycle and are not being returned as readily as lead acid. Several organizations are working on programs to make the collection of all batteries convenient. Only 20 to 40 percent of batteries in mobile phones and other consumer products are currently recycled. The goal of recycling is to prevent hazardous materials from entering landfills and to utilize the retrieved materials in the fabrication of new products.

Spent batteries should be removed from the household. Old primary cells are known to leak and cause damage to the surrounding area. Do not store old lead acid batteries where children play. Simply touching the lead poles can be harmful. Also, keep button cells hidden from small children as they can swallow these batteries.

Even though environmentally unfriendly, lead acid batteries continue to hold a strong market niche, especially as a starter battery. Wheeled mobility and UPS systems could not run as economically if it were not for this reliable battery. NiCd also continues to hold a critical position among rechargeable batteries as large flooded NiCds start jet airplanes and propel sightseeing boats in rivers of larger cities. Although pollution-free, these batteries are in decline.

Batteries with toxic substances will continue to be with us and there is nothing wrong in using them as long as they are being disposed of properly. Each battery chemistry has its own recycling procedure and the process begins by sorting the batteries into the correct categories.

Lead Acid: Recycling of lead acid began with the introduction of the starter battery in 1912. The process is simple and cost-effective as lead is easy to extract and can be reused multiple times. This led to many profitable businesses and the recycling of other batteries.

In late 2013, smelters started to report an increased number of Li-ion batteries being mixed in with lead acid, especially in starter batteries. This can cause fires, leading to explosion and personal injury. The physical appearance of lead acid and Li-ion packs are similar and sorting at high volume poses a challenge. For consumers, a battery is a battery and folks are enticed to recycle all batteries, never mind the chemistry. As more lead acid are being replaced with Li-ion, the problem will only escalate. From 2010–2013, there has been a 10-fold increase in reported incidents of infiltration of Li-ion with lead acid.

Please note that Li-ion is more volatile when stripped than lead acid. Presorting is done for safety reasons and not to separate hazardous material. Lead acid is benign but toxic, Li-ion is non-malignant but explosive.

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) initiate action through increased awareness, employee training, battery identification and labeling. X-ray technologies to separate batteries are being explored and “who carries the liability?” is being asked. Battery manufacturers put the responsibility on the recyclers who in turn argue that the burden and sustainability of a product must be borne by the manufacturer. The courts may become the arbitrators.

Nickel-cadmium: When NiCd batteries are disposed of carelessly, the metallic cell cylinder eventually corrode in the landfill. Cadmium dissolves and seeps into the water supply. Once contamination begins, authorities are helpless to stop the carnage. Our oceans already show traces of cadmium (along with aspirin, penicillin and antidepressants) but scientists are not certain of its origin.

Nickel-metal-hydride: Nickel and the electrolyte in NiMH are semi-toxic. If no disposal service is available in an area, individual NiMH batteries can be discarded with other household waste in small quantities; however, with 10 or more batteries, the user should consider disposal them in a secure waste landfill. The better alternative is taking the spent batteries to a neighborhood drop-off bin for recycling.

Primary Lithium: These batteries contain metallic lithium that reacts violently when in contact with moisture and must be disposed of appropriately. If thrown in a landfill in a charged state, heavy equipment operating on top could crush the cases and the exposed lithium could ignite a fire. Landfill fires are difficult to extinguish and can burn for years underground. Before recycling, apply a full discharge to consume the lithium content. Primary lithium batteries (lithium-metal) are used in military combat, as well as in watches, sensors, hearing aids and memory backup. A lithium-metal variety also serves as alkaline replacement in AAA, AA and 9V formats. Li-ion for mobile phones and laptops do not contain metallic lithium.

Lithium-ion: Li-ion is reasonably harmless but spent packs should be disposed of properly. This is done less to retrieve valuable metals, as is the case with lead acid, than for environmental reasons, especially with the growing volume used in consumer products. Li-ion contains harmful elements that are at the toxicity level of electronic devices.

Alkaline: After lowering the mercury content in alkaline batteries in 1996, many territories now allow disposing these batteries as regular domestic trash; however, California considers all batteries hazardous waste. In Europe, lead acid, NiCd, mercury containing batteries, unsorted collections of multiple battery types, and battery electrolytes are considered hazardous waste. All others can pass as non-hazardous. Most stores selling batteries are also required to take back spent batteries. Alkaline batteries contain the reusable materials of zinc and manganese but the retrieval process is a liability. Efforts are made to increase the recycling of alkaline cells from the low 4 percent in 2015 to 40 percent in 2025.

In North America, Retriev Technologies, formerly Toxco, and the Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation (RBRC) collect spent batteries and recycle them. While Retriev has its own recycling facilities, RBRC is in charge of collecting batteries and sending them to recycling organizations. Retriev in Trail, British Columbia, claims to be the only company in the world that recycles large lithium batteries. They receive spent batteries from oil drilling in Nigeria, Indonesia and other places. They also recycle retired lithium batteries from the Minuteman missile silos and tons of Li-ion from war efforts. Other divisions at Retriev recycle nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal-hydride, lead, mercury, alkaline and more.

Europe and Asia are also active in recycling spent batteries. Among other recycling companies, Sony and Sumitomo Metal in Japan and Umicore in Belgium have developed technology to retrieve cobalt and other precious metals from spent lithium ion batteries.

Umicore uses an ultra-high temperature (UHT) processes to recycle Li-ion and NiMH batteries. Spent packs are dismantled and melted in an UHT furnace. The derbies are separated into metal alloy containing copper, cobalt and nickel, and slag, a stony waste containing rare earth metals. Slag can be further processed to recover lithium, but producing battery-grade lithium is not yet economical and the slag is used for construction. Methods are being developed to extract lithium for reprocessing into lithium carbonate for Li-ion production. With an anticipated 10-fold growth in the use of Li-ion batteries between 2020 and 2030, the reuse of lithium could become economical so the metals end up in battery production again much like lead for lead acid batteries.

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What Is the Difference Between NiCad and NiMH?

The sheer popularity of these rechargeable batteries often raises the question, “What’s the difference between NiCAD and NiMH batteries?”

To summarize, the main differences between NiCAD and NiMH batteries deal with capacity, memory effect, and environmental friendliness.

Nickel-metal hydride (NIMH) batteries have a higher capacity than nickel-cadmium (NICAD) batteries, which means that they can generally power your device for longer. They also don’t suffer from the same memory effect, so they won’t “forget” the ability to achieve a full charge over time. Finally, NiMH batteries are much better for the environment than their NiCAD battery counterparts. Difference Between NiCad and NiMH

However, nickel-cadmium still offers some advantages over nickel-metal hydride, such as their extreme temperature performance.

Nickel-Cadmium (NiCAD) Batteries
The world’s first NiCad battery was developed by a Swedish scientist in 1899. Needless to say, there have been many improvements since then.

A standard nickel-cadmium battery is composed of a nickel(III) oxide-hydroxide positive electrode plate, a cadmium negative electrode plate, a separator, and a potassium hydroxide electrolyte.

Common uses: Some popular applications of NiCAD batteries are toys, emergency lighting, medical equipment, commercial and industrial products, electric razors, two-way radios, power tools, and more.

Benefits: Here’s an overview of some of the advantages of NiCAD batteries:
Relatively inexpensive Charge very quickly, simple to charge Easy to store, easy to ship Take a high number of charges Functional in low temperatures
Drawbacks: And here are some of their shortcomings:
Not as powerful as some other rechargeable batteries Self-discharge while in storage Contain toxic metals that are harmful to the environment
Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) Batteries

NiMH batteries are a much more modern phenomenon. Research and development began at the Battelle-Geneva Research Center in 1967, and was satisfactorily completed in 1987.

The chemical composition of a standard nickel-metal hydride battery looks like this: a nickel hydroxide positive electrode plate, a hydrogen ion negative electrode plate, a separator, and an alkaline electrolyte such as potassium hydroxide.

Common uses: These include automotive batteries, medical instruments, pagers, cell phones, camcorders, digital cameras, electric toothbrushes, and other low-cost consumer devices.

Benefits: Here’s a look at a few of the advantages of going with a NIMH battery:
Quite a high capacity compared to other rechargeable batteries Resists both over-charging and over-discharging Extremely lightweight construction Friendly to the environment: no hazardous chemicals like cadmium, mercury, or lead

Drawbacks: And here are some of the limitations:
More expensive than other rechargeable models Self-discharge rapidly while in storageDifference Between NiCad and NiMH Cut power suddenly rather than a slow trickle down Some only work with manufacturer’s charger
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How to Dispose of Battery Responsibly

Batteries are a great thing. They make our lives much easier, much more convenient, and much better. These days, batteries are engineered to last longer than ever before; they’re also made with chemicals that are significantly less dangerous to the environment. However, despite these advances in technology, all batteries will die at some point, and all necessitate certain considerations during the disposal of batteries. how to dispose of battery It’s with that in mind that many consumers have wondered, “How to dispose of battery responsibly? or “How to recycle batteries?”.

Attention: Understand Your Local Battery Disposal Laws!
When it comes to the proper disposal of batteries, the most important thing is to thoroughly familiarize yourself with your specific state and local laws.

These are the ultimate authorities when it comes to this, and the guidelines that’ll help ensure that irresponsible battery disposal doesn’t verge on illegal disposal.

How to Dispose of Battery By Type
Here’s an overview of how to dispose of battery by type:

Alkaline batteries: Most states allow you to throw your spent alkaline batteries right in your household trashcan. However, when it comes to 9-volt batteries, you should cover the posts with electrical tape, as they can pose a fire hazard otherwise.

NOTE: There are some special regulations in California. Once again, always comply with the local rules.

Lithium or lithium-ion batteries: Both lithium and lithium-ion batteries should be dropped off at a special battery recycling center. You can find where to recycle batteries in your local area by search online and using one of the many battery recycling center locator tools!

Button batteries: These batteries, which typically power devices like hearing aids and watches, often contain hazardous compounds such as mercuric oxide or silver oxide. You should only dispose of button batteries at a designated hazardous waste collection site; you can find these online. Otherwise, you could cause you and your loved ones breathing problems, lung irritation, throat soreness, stomach pain, and other issues.

Nickel-Cadmium batteries: Similarly, you should also get rid of nickel-cadmium batteries at a hazardous waste collection site that’s designed for that type of thing.

Nickel-Metal hydride batteries: While nickel-metal hydride batteries are generally much safer than nickel-cadmium batteries, they’re still known to contribute to cancer, heart disease, and high blood pressure. Every effort should be made to find where to recycle batteries near you.

Lead-Acid batteries: This battery type, which encompasses either sealed or unsealed varieties, is particularly important. These batteries contain sulfuric acid, and can be very harmful. All lead-acid batteries, including car batteries, should go to one of two places: back to the retailer or to a certified hazardous waste collection site.

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How Do Batteries Work?

These days, batteries are practically everywhere. In fact, we’ve allowed our society to become totally dependent upon them. They’re so ubiquitous that most people take them for granted. Think about it: Do you really know how a battery works, or do you just count on it without a second thought?
Before we dive into the specifics, we’ll give you a few hints. Contrary to some popular beliefs:
It’s not magic. It’s not a government conspiracy. There’s no pink bunny armed with a bass drum and a pair of retro shades.
How Do Batteries Work: Defining Battery Terms The most important step of any technical explanation of how do batteries work is actually establishing what the terms in question mean. Otherwise, when we say electrolyte, you might think that we’re talking about a red Gatorade; and when we say cathode, you might think that we’re talking about next year’s hottest baby name.

Anode: Negatively charged electrode (metallic conductor) that loses electrons to the cathode.
Cathode: Positively charged electrode (metallic conductor) that accepts electrons from the anode.
Electrolyte: Ionic solution that reacts with the two aforementioned electrodes to give them +/- charges.
Separator: Prevents electrons from flowing inside the battery (short-circuiting); instead, this forces them to flow through the wire (thus creating electricity and powering the attached device).
Electricity: The flow of electrons through a conductive path, such as a wire.

How Do Batteries Work: Chemical Reaction
And now for the moment we’ve all been waiting for: How do batteries work.

The two electrodes are situated at opposite ends of a battery. They’re both immersed in an electrolyte fluid. For example, in a typical alkaline battery, the one electrode is comprised of zinc, while the other is comprised of manganese dioxide, and the electrolyte is potassium hydroxide.

This sparks a chemical reaction between the ions of the electrolytes and the metals of each respective electrode: One becomes the negatively charged anode (i.e., it has an excess buildup of electrons), while the other becomes the positively charged cathode (i.e., it has a proportional deficiency of electrons).

This means that there’s now an electrical difference between the anode and the cathode. In other words, the electrons that have built up in the anode want to move toward the electron-starved cathode.

However, there’s a separator to ensure that they don’t make this journey within the battery. By attaching a device to the battery (remember that you attach it at both the negative and the positive terminal), you’re creating a circuit, or, a path through which the electrons can travel from the anode to the cathode.

While they’re on their way, your device basically siphons off a bunch of them as a power source. And there you have it. Voila!

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How to Change a Watch Battery

Imagine this scenario: You’re sitting on your couch, minding your own business, when the second hand stops ticking. There are two possible reasons that this happened: Either time has stopped altogether, or your watch battery is dead. Some scientists from UC Berkeley predict that time could end within the next three to four billion years. Most agree that it’s very unlikely to happen during our lifetime.

With that in mind, you can safely conclude that your watch’s battery has died. You know what that means: You need to change your watch battery for a new one. You might wonder, how to change a watch battery?

How to Change a Watch Battery in 10 Simple Steps
Step 1: Remove the back cover.
There are generally three types of back covers: ones that unscrew themselves, ones that require a small screwdriver, and ones that must be gently pried loose.

Step 2: Remove the gasket.

If you notice a rubber ring underneath the back cover, this is the gasket. Set it aside before taking out the battery. Note: If it’s dirty, you should clean it, too.

Step 3: Find the watch battery.

Most watch batteries are of the button-cell variety. It’ll usually be a shiny metallic color, with a diameter somewhere between 6 and 9.5 millimeters.

Step 4: Extract the watch battery.
Now for the big moment! Once you’ve located the watch’s battery, it’s time to determine what’s holding it in place. Some are restrained with a cover and screw, others with a spring clip, and still others are more loosely installed. Make sure that you use the correct tool for the job. Warning: We recommend using plastic tools, rather than metal ones, to avoid an electrical shock.

Step 5: Identify the watch battery.

Notice the 3- or 4-digit number on the back of the casing. This will tell you exactly which model it is.

Step 6: Buy the watch battery replacement.

You can purchase replacement watch batteries in most jewelry stores, electronics stores, drug stores, or hardware stores. You’ll also find plenty of them on our Battery Depot website! Refer to your defunct battery’s identification number to ensure that you’re getting the rig
ht one for your timepiece.

Step 7: Install the watch battery replacement.
Perform Step 4 in reverse.

Step 8: Make sure that it’s working.
Now that your watch has a new battery, you should check if it’s running. If it’s still not keeping time, perhaps you should call the researchers at UC Berkeley to let them know that something’s amiss with the space-time continuum.

Step 9: Replace the gasket.

Perform Step 2 in reverse.

Step 10: Replace the back cover.

Perform Step 1 in reverse.

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